Part 5: Rome

 Rome

When planning this trip, I really wanted to see if we could make a trip to Rome work.  Turns out we were able to squeeze in two full days.  We stayed at a place called Quiet Trevi Fountain which was set back in this courtyard behind two gates and was perfectly situated next to the Trevi Fountain (as the name would suggest). 

Trevi Fountain

Upon arrival to Rome we took a cab (fixed rate 60E) to the city center from the airport.  This was not a great experience.  In fact, because of this we opted for the 25 minute walk with our stuff in the heat to the train terminal and the 30 minute AirPort Express train to get back, which actually worked out well.  Also, I can’t say much about the food in Rome, you just have to look up google reviews and try places, but we did have some good pizza and pasta while we were there. 

Pompei

Pompei

The first day we took an express train from the main terminal station to Pompeii.  There are two ways to get to Pompei that I can tell.  The fast train that lands at a station 6 blocks away or the slower trains that get to the closer Pompeii Scavi station.  We opted for the 2 hour fast train with a single stop/train swap in Naples.  It turns out that the main terminal station in Naples and the Garibaldi Sation are basically connected and easy to move between, just make sure you look for the right level for Garibaldi Square (level 2?) and then the correct platform. 

Pompei

Pompeii was hot.  It was also not helpful that we skipped the close entrance and went to a farther entrance and then searched for 30 minutes for the cafe that’s actually on top of the hill by the current excavation site.  It also doesn’t help that nothing is well labeled especially road names and the new cafe. 

However, we had our hats and fans and we listened to Rick Steves guide us though some of the most interesting sites.  Note the guide is a bit out of date but it was ok as the only main issue was the plaster casts which are now moved to the garden entrance (the one we skipped but did exit from) and attached to the bookstore.  If it wasn't so hot, we would have enjoyed staying longer and I would even consider a personal guided tour next time to learn more about the history.  

The kids loved visiting Pompei, especially since Max did a presentation and report on the city just a month before for school.  

Roman Forum from behind Piazza del Campidogilo

On the train ride I’d been looking up guided tours of Rome, and I found a free evening walking tour through What About Tours and Guruwalk.  You just tip at the end what you believe is fair.  So we got back, made a quick stop at the apartment, then quickly hurried over to Piazza del Calcarari for the start.  The tour was really informative and the kids enjoyed most of it, even if it was a 2 hour after an already long and hot day in Pompeii. I would definitely recommend this to anyone. We got a rich history of Rome, learned a lot about Ceasar, and oversaw the Roman Forum from a vantage point I’m not sure I remembered from last time. That night both kids fell asleep at the dinner table :) 

On day 2 we packed a lot into our last day.  We had a light breakfast at a coffee and pastry shop around the corner before visiting Trevi Fountain (again), the Cappuccini Crypt, Spanish Steps, Bocca della Verita, Pantheon, and, of course, the Colosseum.  

Cappuccini Crypt

Colosseum

Bocca della Verita (Mouth of Truth)

Pantheon

We listened to Rick Steves audio tours at both the Pantheon and the Coliseum and got lucky with a break in the weather for most of the day (except of course the 2 hours we roasted at the Colosseum).  I was able to get arena level tickets and advanced tickets for the Colosseum so that made things easier but I wasn’t able to secure the underground experience as it sold out as soon as it came available.  Note that the Pantheon also now requires tickets and we almost missed out because I didn’t know that.  Although you can buy them same day, you must be in the ticket line by 5:15/5:30 as they close the line at a certain time even if you've already been waiting for 30 minutes.  

The kids really enjoyed the Coliseum, especially Jesse who said it was the highlight of the whole vacation.  They both took more pictures than I did :)

And with that our family vacation came to an end.  It was an amazing trip and a great experience.  

Greece - Part 4: Milos

Milos

Each island more beautiful than the last.  Our stay in Milos was far too short.  After a much smaller ferry ride on much rougher seas, we arrived about 2 hours after we'd left Paros.  We picked up our car from the port from Avance Rental Car and headed to Pollonia to meet our host, Steilos at Unique Milos Suites.  

Private Beach at Unique Milos Suites

We booked this directly through their website as booking.com kept surge pricing me each time I looked. Steilos was the most gracious host and the place was amazingly beautiful.  The suite itself was spacious, airy, and bright.  It had two porches, one in the back and one in front, a shower that had a cutout to view the ocean while showering, and its own private section of beach across the little street.  Each of the three suites at Unique Milos had a small dedicated section of beach with two large bean chairs, two small, and two loungers under a large tree.  Steilos also stocked the suite each day with fresh fruits and breads and treats as well as clean towels.

After checking in it was quite late so we quickly headed down the road to Yialos for dinner.  Max and I split the lamb which was sous vide to 62 degC then grilled to perfection.  Jeremy and Jesse split the seafood pasta. 

Sarakiniko Beach

Sarakinko Beach

The next day we started our exploration with a stop at Sarakiniko Beach where we spent most of the morning.  The moonscape like features are so unique.  We walked around, swam in the inlet and 3 of us even jumped off the cliff.  The cliff jumping was interesting not for the jump itself (we did the small one), but for the swim out through the cave. We watched several people do this before going ourselves.  Timing was critical to wait for the lull in the wave to exit.  We watched many people not do this and get pounded to the rocks upon exit.

 

Fishing Village (Firopotamos or Mandrakia)

Octopus sun drying on the line

Next we headed to a few small fishing villages to wander around.  We started with Kilma (near Trypiti), where we had lunch, then explored Firopotamos, and Mandrakia.  Each is only a short drive and maybe 15-20 minutes of viewing, but they are worth the stop.

We then explored around the capital of Plaka (this you can skip) and walked around the port town of Adamas.  Finally we headed back toward home for the late afternoon so we could enjoy the beach and suite where we were staying. 

Sundried Grilled Octopus

For dinner we ate on the beach at Akrotiri where we enjoyed their famous grilled octopus and sausages.  (Note, when eating sun dried grilled octopus you must slice it very thin to enjoy it). 

Milos Sea Tours

The next day we headed out early to drive south for a small boat tour with Milos Sea Tours off the beach of Agia Kiriaki.  Here you have two options, drive the boat yourself or hire a captain for the half day (9-2).  When we booked I’d opted for a captain (skipper) and I’m so glad I did.  Alex was our captain and he was amazing.  If you don’t get a captain you can’t go into the tiny caves and Alex took us into all of them, even some that were crazy small.  He knew all the best and secret places.  I can’t describe in words the magic of how the water looks and changes when you enter a sea cave and the light refracts just right off the water.  It’s magical.  

Caves

Blue Water of Milos

Caves

Alex also took us to Klefitiko caves, and up to Sykia caves.  The waves were choppy heading north up to Skyia caves but the kids loved it. It may have been the highlight of the day. They had so much fun bouncing around on the small boat. Alex even did a few circles for them back in the calmer area and let them drive for a few minutes.  After a few hours we all got out and swam at Kleftiko and Fyriplaka beaches, both only accessible by boat. This adventure was one of the highlights, if not thee, highlight, of the trip to Greece and if you find yourself in Milos you must rent a small boat, get yourself a skipper, and I highly recommend Milos Sea Tours. (Note to bring water, food, and sunscreen, though they did also provide beer and waters and juices for us too).

Alogomandra (I think)

After hanging on the beach at Agia Kiriaki for a while we made our way back home with a quick stop at Papafragas for photos and Alogomandra.  Well Alogomandra was supposed to be quick, but Max saw a jumping spot and really wanted to jump in.  Jesse also thought it was cool and really wanted to go and not miss out on the experience.  So I went in with them and we swam through the channel and under rock bridges.  The water wasn’t so clear but Jesse was so proud of himself for going into the water and conquering his fears. 

After lounging on our beach back in Pollonia and taking some much needed showers we headed to Rafiki for dinner.  I had the seafood risotto which was so delicious and Jeremy had the Rafiki cocktail was also quite good. 

Our last morning in Greece and on Milos we decided to enjoy our suite and just relax at the beach.  Stelios was nice enough to give us a later checkout so we could stay till 12:30 before heading to the airport.  While we didn’t have time to Kimolos island on this trip, I can say for certain that we will be back to Milos.  

After a very interesting and short puddle jumper flight back Athens, it was on to Rome!  (Note for next time, flights operate on island time, so make sure connections have at least 2 hours or longer if traveling to another destination, expecially internationally)

On to Rome!

Greece - Part 3 : Paros

Paros

 

Every place in Greece we visited got a little more quiet and, IMO, a little more beautiful.  

Iconic Paros Town

We landed in Paros and had prearranged a car from Paros Trust Rental as advised by our host, Apostolis.  Dimitri met us at the port with a sign and we walked to the car.  It was so easy, I’d highly recommend you reach out to them if you are renting a car in Paros.  We were staying just outside of the port at Villa Ble Paros so our host, Apostolis came down to the port on his scooter to meet us and guide us back to the house.  

Villa Ble Paros

View from our house

The house and the view were so beautiful.  Just a 10-15 minute walk from the port, we appreciated staying just outside of town on a beautiful quiet property.  Each morning we got pastries from the nearby shop and had breakfast on the patio, we were able to do laundry and hang dry the items out on the line, and just really enjoyed the stay.  While I found that I personally enjoyed the town of Naoussa over Parikia, I wouldn’t hesitate to stay here again.  Having a car meant it was easy and quick to get around and the parking is easy everywhere. 

As a side note, everyone on Greece uses WhatsApp so make sure you do too.  Also, our visit to Paros was days 6-8 on our trip, so we intentionally picked a place with a laundry washer as we each only brought one carry on luggage for the whole 16 day trip.

Kolymbithres Beach

Since we arrived early, we dropped our stuff, got settled, then headed to Kolymbithres beach for some relaxing.  This beach is known for its lunar-like landscape and unique features.  The kids had fun in the water while we wandered around and lounged on the sand.  Eventually it was time for food. 

Naoussa Town

Ragout at Almond in Paros

Greek Wedding Celebration

The first night in Paros we headed to Naoussa town. Many blogs will tell you Naoussa is a party scene or tourist trap, and maybe it’s more crazy in July/August, but we found it just the right amount of charm and liveliness.  We even stumbled upon a Greek wedding celebration at one of the open air restaurants and it was so much fun to watch.  As we wandered around, we paused to have cocktails at a cute cafe before heading to Almond in Paros for dinner.  We stumbled upon this restaurant and the atmosphere drew me in.  The food was really good and I had the ragout which was amazing. While here we also picked up a few cheap beach mats.  These proved clutch for the next 7 days in Paros and Milos.

Byzantine Path

Our first full day in Paros we visited a few small towns and hiked part of the Byzantine Path, the oldest ‘road’ in Paros at over 1000 years old.  We started in Lefkes. It’s only a15 minute drive (the island isn’t big) and I recommend just parking at the free parking area.  I thought we could get “closer” to the start of the hike and accidentally took us down a road so tight I wasn’t sure we’d make it out without damaging the car.  After that stressful experience we went back to the parking area and was pleasantly surprised to find clean public bathrooms right below the steps. 

Once finally parked we wandered the streets and admired the view from the Church of the Holy Trinity up on the hill.  From here you can see the Byzantine path and to start you just head down that way till you see the marked sign. 

Walking this path we could feel the history and imagine ourselves as traders walking to the market to sell and trade our goods.  The kids had fun discussing what they would have brought and traded as we walked.  Note that this isn’t a particular lot long or hard walk but it is uneven as you are walking along some of the original marble, which Paros is known for mining.  (Side note, you can still visit the marble quarries on Paros but we didn’t on this trip).  

After ~2 miles we came to the edge of Prodromos town. As you wander into town you’ll come across 1 of 2 cafes and around the corner is the bus timetable.  We weren’t fully sure how we wanted to get back to Lefkes, but found that the next bus was about 45 minutes out and that seemed perfect (note they only come every 2 hours or so).  So we wandered, found some cats (so many stray cats in Greece) and then hopped the bus back to our car (2.50E/pp cash).

After getting the car we drove to Marpissa which is one of the cutest, most iconically Cycladic villages we visited.  We’re taking white houses with blue doors, pink flowers, tiny stone alleyways. We ate lunch here at Charoula cafe which was so delicious - Greek salad, kebab, tzatziki (best, we had) and they even gave us little free ice cream pops at the end. We spent the next hour or so wandering, finding cats, and enjoying the small town.  If you're in Paros, you must visit and you must eat here.

Piso Livadi Beach

Lastly we headed more south to Piso Livadi beach.  We enjoyed lounging and swimming on this beautiful beach with its crystal clear turquoise waters.  Simply gorgeous. 

Aliki Beach Area

Balcony Tou Aki

The next day, our second on Paros, was our beach day.  We started at Golden Beach (Chrissi Atki beach).  Parking is easy, just go near any beach club like Blue and you’ll find the lots.  The sand is soft and the water clear for what seems like miles in all directions.  Unfortunately the winds were also strong off the north side and though we were south, the fine sand of the beach kicks up easily and sand blasted us too much for comfort.  So after some time in the water we decided it was necessary to find another beach that was better protected. We were also getting hungry, so we headed for Aliki beach and had lunch at the recommended Balcony Tou Aki.  The food was delicious and the table was right on the water.  It was perfect.  Making it more perfect was the kids running off to the beach while we sat and finished our wine.  We ended up staying at this area for much of the afternoon.  I was able to pick up a bucket and two shovels and the kids had so much fun on the beach trying to catch fish, digging, and finding cool rocks.  The beach is also partly protected from the wind with more compacted sand so it was less prone to being picked up by the wind.  

Santa Maria Beach

Our last day in Paros was a long day, as our ferry to Milos wasn’t until 6:30pm.  I wanted to spend it at a beach club, lounging on comfy chairs under an umbrella.  After visiting the church of 100 doors in Parikia (Panagia Ekatontopiliani), we headed to Santa Maria beach and it did not disappoint.  Clear blue waters, nice sand, and a beach club for drinks, lounging, and food.  We opted for a front row chair set (50E) and picked a corner chair so we could easily watch the kids, view the water, and make sure we were up wind from anyone smoking.  We stayed until about 4:30 when we had to head back to port.  

After meeting Dimitri to drop the car, we wandered around and I picked up a Hamman towel that is simply lovely.  It may be my new favorite for its quick drying and ability to quickly repel the sand.  Though we didn’t have enough time this trip to visit the island of AntiParos we know it’s an easy day trip that we will definitely do next time!

On to Milos! 

Greece - Part 2 : Santorini

Oia, Santorini

Oia, Santorini

We flew from Athens to Santorini via Sky Express.  Though we didn’t pay to choose our seats, it was fine and we were assigned together on this tiny little prop plane for the short 45 minute flight.  Obviously parents claimed the windows on the 2x2 plane and we had no issue staring at the blue waters and volcanic islands as we went.  

Santorini is an island in the Aegean Sea formed when a volcano erupted and sank half the island.  What’s left is a crescent shaped island with sweeping views.  The land itself, like most Greek islands, is brown and volcanic or desert like, set in juxtaposition to the bluest waters you’ve ever seen. 

We opted to stay in Oia, the picturesque “instagram” town, in a tiny cave house set into the hill.  It was worth the splurge and it is vacation after all.  Though we did have a chance to see other towns and there are some amazing resorts on the island to also consider. 

Artia Mansion Cave House

The place we stayed was Artia Mansion.  It was really hard to choose a room on the island but I picked this for the balance of “cave feel,” the view of both the sea and the town, and the price (one night here was the total we paid for 3 nights in other places and that was on the cheaper end of options in Oia).  Overall the room was very cute, the kids took turns in the cave bed, and the patio was nice to sit each morning.  The host left us some yogurt, bread, jams, and other breakfast items to enjoy each morning. Like Athens, Santorini was very hot, so while the kids liked the “warm tub” I could see trying to get a place with a bigger pool if we came in the summer again.  Overall I give it 4/5 stars and would consider staying here again but would also look at other options or even a resort.  (Note if you go for a resort you’ll need to rent a car though parking generally seemed doable in each town with a short walk to where you wanted to go).  We didn’t get a car and instead used our host services to pick us up at the airport and take us to the ferry on the last day. 

Ammoudi Bay Swimming

Our first afternoon in Oia we walked around and eventually headed down to Ammoudi Bay for swimming.  The decent is 250 steps down… the ascent is 250 steps up… we did this 3 times during our stay.  As a side note, you can get a donkey ride back up for 10E each but it’s cash only and I kept forgetting to bring any.  When you arrive at the bottom, you’ll cross though a few restaurants and carefully swing past a fence.  Then it’s a short walk around the rocks until you come to the obvious rocky swimming hole.  There is a small current and it’s open bay, so make sure you can swim, but man it feels so refreshing on a hot day.  And the water is so clear! (Note that I packed goggles and one towel for the trip).  

That night we found a spot to watch sunset and then ate at Roka for dinner.  One consistent we found in Greece was that we didn’t really individually eat that much at each sitting.  We’d usually get 1-2 salads/appetizers and then 2 main dishes for the 4 of us, and it was plenty of food.  Roka was good but what stood out was the atmosphere and the aperitif Masitha.  So good and unique that we got some to bring home.

A note about sunset on the caldera in Oia.  Yes, it can get crowded, in fact Oia can get very crowded, but we found that we were lucky in early June.  The cruise ships were present however it only ever felt flighty “full” rather than packed.  We also didn’t watch the sunset from the old castle because we were worried about the crowds, but in retrospect I think we could have without much trouble.  While the sunset was lovely, we have some amazing sunsets in California and Hawaii so I didn’t put too much effort into seeing it each night.  Also it wasn't cloudy, which tends to bring more beautiful sunsets.

Caldera by Night

Nighttime however is, in my opinion, when the caldera view really comes alive.  After dinner at Roka, I wandered around town myself, looking at shops.  Just then I rounded a corner on a pathway and came upon a perfectly picturesque spot of the town covered in the night glow of the full moon and tinkling lights of the cave houses. It took my breath away.  The pictures don’t do it justice.  I had to go back to grab the family just to see the amazing view.

Start of the Fira to Oia Hike

Our first day in Oia, we headed out to hike from Fira to Oia along the Caldera. This beautiful, and hot, 10km hike is very popular and it was obvious why, with stunning views the whole time.  To reach Fira we hopped on the bus in Oia and got off in Fira.  It’s 2E/pp each way and was pretty easy once it arrived (island time so timetables are more guidelines than rules).  After grabbing breakfast in Fira we started off.  Most of the way it’s fairly flat with two large hills to climb as we got toward Oia.  Sunscreen, big hats, and neck fans helped keep us cool, though we still ended with red faces and in desperate need of ice cream.  There are many blogs online that provide great detail about the hike so I’ll just say that the key is staying close to the caldera edge and staying out of the “town Main Street” unless you need to stop in for food or water.  There are also helpful sign posts if you kept an eye out for them as well as a few churches along the way to find shade shelter for a few minutes.  

Side note, it’s not advised to drink the water on the islands so we bought a lot of spring water during our stay.  You can pay anywhere from 0.28E to 4E for a 1.5L bottle.  Yea, crazy.  So find markets to stock up when possible.

After 6.2 miles in the heat we made it back to Oia.  The hike was not the hardest we’ve done but it was hot and the kids did great. We made our way to Pitogyros for lunch.  Let me just say this place is amazing - best meat ever (and I used to live in Texas).  We got the mixed meat platter and the chicken gyro platter on day one then returned for the lamb kebabs and chicken skewers the next day.  

Ammoudi Bay Fish Tavern

After much needed rest in the AC, we showered and headed back out.  Jeremy and I left the kids to rest while we wandered the town for a bit and grabbed drinks at Karma.  We all then headed down to Ammoudi bay for dinner at Ammoudi Bay Fish Tavern.  I made reservations ahead of time and asked for a table near the sea (as opposed to up on the terrace).  About an hour before sunset was perfect to see the glow on the other restaurants and the hill.  The sun-dried and grilled octopus was amazing. 

Vista Yachting Catamaran Tour

Sunset from the boat

Day 2 in Santorini we woke late, wandered around town taking pictures, ate lunch at Pitogyros then spent the afternoon and evening on a catamaran touring and swimming in the caldera.  Everyone says you need to do a catamaran tour on Santorini and after having done a semi-private tour for sunset, I’d have to agree.  We opted to go with Vista Yachting on their Platinum Tour because of the food and drink selection and small group (18-20 people).  We had an amazing time and there was plenty of room on the boat for everyone.  We relaxed on the nets, on the bow, on the bean chairs, and the kids even had a chance to drive the catamaran!  We swam in the waters and ate delicious freshly cooked food including seafood pasta, grilled chicken and pork, and tzatziki. Sunset was magical and the weather perfect.  The company also provided our transfer to and from the hotel area.

Nutella Pancakes

Ferry

Our last morning in Oia we woke early, took more pictures, and just enjoyed the view before heading to the ferry.  We opted for the super jet fast ferry from Santorini to Paros and a similar 'fast ferry' from Paros to Milos later in the trip.  These are the quickest way to travel.  You really only need to be at the port 30 minutes ahead of time (and maybe even 15).  We sat and had breakfast at a cafe (Jesse got his staple Nutella pancakes) and then got up to board once the line started moving.  What’s impressive is how quickly they load.  The Seajet was a huge ferry with a large platform opening to load in cars followed by hundreds of people in a matter of 5-10 minutes.  They are pulling away from the port before the massive ramp is even closed.  You drop your luggage where they tell you then head upstairs.  It was all quite pleasant and easy. 

On to Paros!